Yorkshire pudding

Rabbit stew with wheat beer and tarragon

rabbit.jpg

Rabbit stew looks like dog food. No amount of herb garnish or photographic brilliance can make it look good. So instead I offer you a photo of my favourite ‘rabbit’ apron.

I don’t cook rabbit very often but when I do I always use this recipe which started out life as a Nigel Slater one. The ingredients remain roughly the same but I’ve tinkered with the cooking method, preferring a slow cook in the oven to one on the hob.

I only buy wild rabbit from my local farmer’s market but I have to admit I find cooking rabbit a real challenge.  Even decapitated the body is unmistakably a rabbit (visions of Watership Down dance in my head) and I’m too squeamish about this to joint the rabbit myself. If you’re pathetic like me I recommend asking your butcher to do this bit for you. I ask my husband and he does it willingly because this is one of his favourite meals.

This is not a difficult recipe to make but it does take a long time to cook and picking the meat off the bones at the end is a bit fiddly. Nigel, prefers to serve the meat on the bone but I like to concentrate on eating rather than worrying about choking. Some of the rabbit bones are tiny and troublesome.

If you’re not a huge fan of game (like me) then rabbit is a good one to try. It tastes rather like the dark meat from a really good free range turkey. The sauce in this recipe is amazingly rich with the tarragon adding an important note of freshness. We should probably eat more wild rabbit, they are plentiful and farmers see them as pests and shoot them to preserve their crops. Although there is no closed season for rabbit hunting a moral farmer* will not shoot while they are raising their young.

Ben likes his stew served in a giant Yorkshire pudding – unconventional, but delicious (but then again anything served in a Yorkshire pudding is usually good).

I have also used the meat as a ravioli filling with the sauce tossed through the pasta at the end before serving.

*such as Picks Organic Farm who sold me my rabbit back in March – it’s been in the freezer a while

Rabbit stew

Serves 2

  • 2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 1 whole rabbit, jointed into 6 portions
  • A thick slice of butter (about 1 cm thick)
  • The needles of 2 bushy springs of rosemary
  • 4 sprigs of thyme
  • 1 litre of wheat beer
  • 150ml of double cream (or less if you don’t like things too creamy – I just used a dash)
  • The leaves of 4 sprigs of tarragon, roughly chopped
  • Salt and pepper

In a heavy based casserole dish melt the butter over a medium heat and cook the onions until translucent. Remove the onions.

Season the rabbit pieces well with salt and pepper and brown in the pan for around 5 minutes on each side until you have a nice deep brown colour. Add the onions back in.

Add the rosemary, thyme and wheat beer to the pan and bring to the boil.

Put a lid on and cook in an 150oC oven for 3 – 4 hours until the rabbit meat is tender and comes away from the bone easily. The amount of time this will take will depend on the age and provenance of your rabbit. Wild rabbits will generally take longer than farmed (but will taste better).

Let the stew cool and then pick the meat from the bones. This is a finicky job. Discard the bones and put the meat to one side.

Then pass the liquid through a fine sieve, mushing up at the end with a spoon to get all the best onion juices, then add to the rabbit meat. Heat through again on the hob and then add the cream, then the tarragon and season with salt and pepper.

You can prepare this in advance but refrigerate before you add the cream and tarragon. Reheat in a 160oC oven for 30 minutes, then finish with cream and tarragon on the hob.

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Yorkshire Puddings – Delia versus Aunt Bessie

The children are back at school, the days are slowly drawing in, and I can suddenly feel a slight autumn chill in the air. This is when I start dreaming of warming comfort food – stews, pies, crumbles, basically anything calorific and slightly stodgy. Last night, to satisfy my craving, I cooked a giant Yorkshire pudding using Delia’s magic recipe from her ‘Complete Cookery Course’ book. I’ve not changed it much except to double the quantity, as I like the Yorkshire pudding to act as the main event, not just an accompaniment.

Say what you like about Delia but for me she is the queen of the basic every day recipe and I promise that this one has never, ever, let me down. The puddings may vary slightly with regards to how much they rise, and they may sometimes rise unevenly, but they always do rise. I (perhaps rudely) offer to give it to anyone who ever serves me an Aunt Bessie’s.

Delia’s Yorkshire Puddings

  • 150g plain flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 150ml milk
  • 100ml water
  • A good pinch of salt
  • Oil (I use rapeseed oil)

Preheat your oven to 220oC.

Oil two round tins, 20cm wide with a desert spoon of oil for each tin and put in the oven to heat up.

Measure the flour, salt, eggs and milk into a bowl and whisk by hand until smooth. Then add the water and whisk again for a minute or so to get plenty of air into the mix.

You will need to work quickly for the next part. Remove the hot tins from the oven and fill each one with half the batter mixture. The mixture should sizzle and bubble as it touches the hot oil. Put the tins back into the oven on the same shelf and close the door gently. Cook for 20 minutes until risen and golden.

Now fill the Yorkshire puddings with a filling of your choice. My absolute favourite is cabbage, sausages and gravy. A meaty stew is also good.

The golden lovelys. Please excuse the rather grimy oven.

The golden lovelys. Please excuse the rather grimy oven.

Ready for the table. And yes, this is one portion.

Ready for the table. And yes, this is one portion.